The Stench of Rotting Eggs

As one enters the town of Rotorua, a first observation may be the beautiful lake carrying the same name, or the recreational redwood grove, or the Tudor-style buildings, but likely, it is none of these. What many first perceive upon entering Rotorua is its smell. Built atop a volcanic plateau, Rotorua is one of the most geothermally active sites in New Zealand, and the accompanying sulfurous odor resembles the stench of rotting eggs. Nonetheless, Rotorua is a popular tourist destination, boasting erupting geysers, bubbling mudpools, natural hotpools, and a stronghold for Maori culture.

Situated about a half hour from Te Puke, my flatmate, Marcela, and I made a day trip to Rotorua to witness some of these natural wonders. We visited the park of Te Puia. Here, we received a guided tour of the recreated Maori Village. We learned that Maori meeting houses are regarded as ancestors, and visitors must take off their shoes before entering as a sign of respect. The intricate carvings of these structures provided documentation of what was traditionally an oral history. These carvings also decorated the storehouses used to safeguard food supplies. Native trees were used to construct the buildings, and oils from shark meat were used as dye. Reflective shells depict eyes in the carvings, and eyes and tongues of human figures were emphasized were ferocity in order to dissuade enemies from attacking. This segment of the tour was an interesting introduction into the Polynesian culture which founded the islands of New Zealand around 1000 AD.

From the Maori Village, our guide then took us through the Kiwi bird house to show us the national bird. Nocturnal and endangered, Kiwi birds are not easy to find in the wild, but they are interesting creatures to behold. Flightless, lacking a tail, and with a thick coat of fur-like feathers, the Kiwi may resemble a mammal at first glance, but a bird it is nevertheless. Unfortunately, during our trip through the dim house gave us only a mere glance at a sleeping individual, face and beak tucked away. (Photographs were not allowed within the house, given the birds’ sensitivity to light, but I snapped a picture of a stuffed specimen inside the Maori meeting house.)

The final segment of the tour was a stroll through the park of heated earth. The ground literally steamed at every crack and crevice, and the ground was warm under our feet. The bubbling kaolin mudpools originate from feldspar. When melted, the feldspar turns to white kaolin, which mixes with black sulfur to create the grey mud. This mud can reach temperatures as high as 90-95°C. The Pohutu Geyser is also quite a sight. It is one of the largest geysers in the area – reaching heights of 90 feet – and erupts about once an hour.

After our visit to Te Puia park, Marcela and I drove by the lake and over to the Rotorua Museum. The town of Rotorua was originally founded as a spa town, so the museum building, built in 1908, once served as a bathhouse of natural thermal pools. We wandered the lawns and gardens, but as the setting sun left us with dwindling light, we made our way back home to Te Puke. After all, it was time for a breath of fresh air.

For pictures, visit my Shutterfly website.