Tuesday, May 16, 2006

Culture of the Kiwis

Just because I am in another English-speaking country does not mean that there are no cultural differences to be observed. This list has been quite fun to put together.

1. Population. New Zealand is about the same size as California in area, but its population is roughly only a tenth of that of the most populous state. Auckland is the country’s largest city with just over a million people – a third of the country’s population. I am living southeast of Auckland in the Bay of Plenty region, which has also become a popular place to live because of its pristine beaches and moderate climate. People talk about the region’s growing pains and traffic as a result of its popularity. I can sympathize with them, as I feel similar frustrations about California’s Central Valley. But, their ranting makes me chuckle, especially when I consider that there are 17 sheep to every person in this country.

2. Maori people. The native population of New Zealand consists of the Maoris. It is quite an interesting contrast – the pale, scrawny derivatives of England and the darker, huskier natives who “make good rugby players.” That is probably not a P.C. statement, but it is the general conception. Perhaps what is more interesting about the mutualism of these two cultures is the influence they have had on language. There exists cities named Hamilton, Wellington, and Christchurch, and others called Tauranga, Te Puke, and Whakatane. Towns welcome visitors with signs printed both in English and Maori, and children are introduced to the Maori language in school. Kiwis seem to find it humorous to quiz newly-arrived foreigners on the pronunciation of Maori words. I have provoked laughter with some my attempts, but I have learned bits of the language along the way.

3. American accent and Kiwi slang. People here tell me that I have an accent. I let the comments slide since, after all, I am in their country. I similarly get a kick out of some of the slang I hear. The British “bloody” and “dodgy” derogatory remarks made their way to this distant island country, but perhaps what are funnier are the phrases used to describe something positive. “Good as gold” is a common idiom, as are phrases like “cool as” or “sweet as.” They don’t actually go on to finish the phrase, so someone not familiar with the slang is initially left with the curiosity “as what?” until they resign themselves to the fact that they will never know the rest of the simile. And, if the Kiwi accent is strong (because yes, it is them with the accent, not me), then the “as” actually sounds like another word with one more consonant at the end, which I initially misunderstood and found the phrase to be all the more strange. Finally, upon arrival, I was told several times that I would get “jacked up.” Now, in the United States, we would not take such a statement too kindly, but when in my case, it was followed by “with a ride to work” or “with a place to live,” then I figured it was just an expression to which I would have to grow accustomed.

4. Toilets. While I am on the subject of different terminology, I will continue with a comment on toilets. First, if one needs a toilet in a public place, one simply asks for one. Asking where is the restroom will only return a puzzled look. A second note about toilets: many I have seen have two buttons for flushing – one for a half flush and one for a full flush. In the U.S., I have only seen one such toilet and that was in a co-op house in Ithaca. Seems like a clever way to save on water, so I don’t know why we haven’t adopted more of them. Finally, for those of you dieing to know, I cannot tell you whether the water swirls in the opposite direction in the Southern Hemisphere because the toilets here don’t flush with the water swirling; it’s just a straight gush.

5. Short shorts. Perhaps it is because I just came from Chile where women were frowned upon for wearing shorts and men’s short were generally pretty long, but when I arrived here in New Zealand and observed the length of men’s shorts I found them to be incredibly short! Now that I have been here for two weeks, I still believe that men here wear incredibly short shorts! Take, for example, one of my housemates. Nathan is a rugby player – a tall, hefty guy. I came home one evening, and I found him in the kitchen. He was wearing a long (untucked) flannel shirt and a pair of shorts. My initial thought (which hopefully was not expressed on my face) was, “Oh my gosh! He’s not wearing any pants!” I was relieved to realize that, in fact, he was wearing shorts. Although, on second thought, I don’t know if I was actually relieved because I still had to stifle the humor I was finding in the situation. To top it all off, when I returned from running a little while later, Nathan was walking back from the grocery store. He was wearing the same flannel shirt, the same short shorts, and a pair of “gum boots” (rubber boots). Quite the fashion statement. I suppose some shoes are better than no shoes at all.

6. Barefoot. Kiwis have a tendency to leave behind their shoes. Children go to school without them, people walk around the research station (yes, even the laboratories) with their feet exposed, and you will never find a “No shoes, no shirt, no service” sign in businesses because if they were to post them, they would probably soon be finding themselves out of business. I guess I am just a whimp from so many years of wearing highly-supportive, well-cushioned running shoes; I just cringe when I see people walking on concrete, asphalt, and even gravel without any shoes!

7. Right, left, right. Driving in New Zealand is done on the “wrong” side of the road. This also means that the steering wheel in on the “wrong” side of the car, so people have gotten a kick out of me when, as a passenger, I’ve walked to the driver’s side of the car. But, this cultural difference is not only an adjustment when riding in the car; it must also be remembered as a pedestrian. Look right, left, right before crossing the street! I literally have to repeat that to myself every time I approach an intersection when I am running, and I still have urges to finish with one more look to the left.

8. Tea time. Tea time is very important. We have mid-morning and mid-afternoon breaks for tea at the station everyday. A container of tea bags in constantly stocked. Tea is had with almost every meal. There is even a “tea cup” light that flashes and bell that sounds in cars if the driver has been driving too long without stopping for a break. No joke.

9. Americans, American administration, and Canadians. I have heard several jokes and snide remarks about the White House administration. I prefer not to talk about politics, so I don’t contribute any comments, but people usually feel obliged to apologize to me for what they say. I have been told that Kiwis generally think highly of Americans; they just can’t understand our current administration. Again, I am making no judgment call here. Although, I guess Canadians have made some calls. On a camping expedition, upon hearing my “accent,” some Kiwis asked if I was from Canada. I was later told that Canadians were getting insulted by Kiwis always asking if they were from the U.S., so now Kiwis will first ask if a person is from Canada.

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