Cultural Observations

1.) People. Even in my short amount of time here, I have encountered many friendly people. From the families that open up their homes as hostels and welcome strangers, to wait staff in restaurants that patiently describe a menu item when I don’t recognize the word, to subway workers that lead me in the right direction when I’m having trouble finding my connection, I have not felt like an interloper here in Chile. Lony has gone beyond what I consider status quo for a landlady in helping me feel comfortable and settle in, asking what kind of foods I like, providing me with city maps, and even driving me places to help me get my bearings. Denise’s mom has been very supportive, checking in with phone calls from time to time and inviting me for visits. And two Cornell graduates now living in Quillota recently gave me a tour of the university agriculture experiment station there, where one of them works, and welcomed me into their home for the midday meal. True, there have been occasions where I’ve encountered less pleasant people, like the group of women that didn’t give me an inch on the sidewalk, requiring me to step into the mud the sprinklers left behind, and the people that knocked me around with their bags on the subway, but I will set them aside as exceptions to what seems to be a congenial people.

2.) Food. During my last trip here in Chile, I learned that there is an assortment of delicious, characteristic food to enjoy. Three typical Chilean foods that I particularly favor are empanadas, humitas, and pastel de choclo. Empanadas are a type of pastry filled with meat, seafood, vegetables, or cheese. Humitas are like Mexican tamales except they are not filled with anything; they are simply corn mash baked in the husk. Finally, pastel de choclo is perhaps best described as a corn (choclo) and meat casserole. The corn is made into a mash with the meat baked inside.

The produce here is also exceptional. A Chilean salad consists of deliciously red tomatoes and onions, and though no tomatoes can compare to my dad’s tomatoes (and no, I’m not just saying that), these, I must admit, are pretty darn good. I haven’t had a bad piece of fruit yet either. The bread, however, leaves much to be desired. To my Chilean friends reading this, I apologize for my criticism, but the little round rolls resemble cardboard, especially after the fresh breads I ate in Spain. Although, so far, that’s the only food I can criticize here.

3.) Style. Even on these hot Santiago days, most of the women I see are wearing long pants or perhaps long skirts. Sarah and I ventured out on a walk one morning wearing shorts and t-shirts and did not encounter any women wearing the same. I don’t know if shorts are inappropriate for women; certainly we saw men wearing them, so maybe they are considered masculine apparel? Nevertheless, even though the women refrain from showing off their legs, there is no hesitation in wearing low-cut blouses.

4.) Public affection. It happens. Especially on Valentine’s Day? Stay tuned.


5.) Seasons switched. As I am in the southern hemisphere, it is summer time again. It seems a little strange to be in the month of February and experiencing 90 degree temperatures and 15 hour days, but I’m not complaining. It is a dry heat, so it essentially feels like summer back home in the Central Valley, just at the “wrong” time of year.

6.) The environment. In the south of Chile, the sky is a brilliant blue, the air fresh, and billboards remind people to protect environmental resources and the quality of life provided by Mother Nature. Sadly, however, in a city as large as Santiago, positioned as it is between mountain ranges, air quality is bound to be poor. In the evening, I can see the Andes Mountains from my bedroom window, only about 30 miles away, but during the day, they are often completely obscured. I have been impressed, nonetheless, with the recycling bins I’ve seen in Santiago. It is uplifting to see that efforts are being made to preserve and prolong resources. Although, I have also been discouraged that, despite prudent placement of garbage cans throughout parks and along streets, I still see far too many people blatantly littering.

7.) Police. The symbol for the police (carabineros) is a picture of two rifles crossed in the shape of a letter “X”. I just find that a little aggressive.

8.) Tourism. Tourism is a significant contributor to the Chilean economy. Because many of the tourists are from the United States, England, and Australia, many local artists, restaurant staff, and others in tourist industries are at least familiar with the English language. Also, local artists are often quite willing to accept U.S. dollars rather than pesos, as they can usually make money in the exchange. The value of the peso has risen since the last time I was here two years ago; nevertheless, things are still generally cheaper here than in the U.S.

9.) Smoking. Yes, my ranting about smoking continues. Unfortunately, Lony smokes in the apartment sometimes, but I can generally keep my room from smelling as long as I close the door. Smoking is permitted in malls, most restaurants, and other public places, but I have in fact discovered a fair number of restaurants and businesses with non-smoking signs or at least non-smoking spaces. I guess I’m just spoiled, having lived in the two states where smoking in prohibited in all public places.

10.) Sex sells. Frankly, I find this disgusting, and though I know it is the same in the U.S., perhaps it is the fact that I’m living in a big city where advertising abounds that this has become more apparent to me recently. I wonder if the number of young mothers I have seen has any correlation to these blatant messages barraging the city.

11.) Driving. I thought the people in New York honked their horns a lot. Here, if a driver is not rolling into the intersection – even if the light is still red – then he is bound to get a horn honked at him. And speaking of red lights, people think nothing of running them. Rush hours are hectic, and I’m quite content being on my two feet or using the subway. I have used the buses a little. My first time using them, I boarded the correct number but in the wrong direction, so at the end of the line, I had to pay again to go back the way I wanted to go in the first place. That was frustrating.

At intersections where one direction of traffic is stopped, one will often see people walking amidst the cars selling newspapers, flowers, or produce. Other people may be out washing windshields, and I’ve also seen cheerleaders in acrobatic act and boys juggling – all with the hope of collecting coins from the waiting drivers. They just have to be careful that when that light turns green, they’re out of the way of the impatient drivers ready with their hands over the horn.

12.) “Odd” jobs. I can’t help but notice the jobs I see people doing here that one would never see someone doing in the U.S., merely due to high labor costs. For example, it is not uncommon for people to housekeepers and gardeners. In grocery stores, companies station employees with their products to hand out samples, answer questions, or advertise the company. On buses, a driver can concern on his job – driving – while an attendant cares for the passengers. It was, in fact, when riding on a bus that I made note of this cultural observation. The trip was made comfortable because I knew the driver was concentrating on the road and because the attendant was taking care of the other business. And I thought to myself, “If only we could ‘afford’ jobs like this in the U.S.!” Instead, labor costs are so high that we do whatever we can to mitigate the costs, whether it be investigating in harvesting equipment, downsizing a company, or moving jobs overseas. Surely, the quality of life for many would improve if they had work, crime would probably be reduced, teenagers would be less likely to get into mischief, and perhaps we all would appreciate our service industries that much more!

12.) Public affection. No, I haven’t forgotten that I’ve already mentioned this one. Parks – I figured. Buses – I’m not surprised. Museums – Give me a break!